July 10, 2010

  • North Shore 2010 – Part 1

    Dan and I spend one week each summer along the North Shore of Lake Superior.  It’s one of our favorite places.  Most years, our whole family has gone with us, but this year we started an every-other-year tradition so that our kids have time to make other types of family trips.  For the beginning of our week, Dan’s cousin Larry and his wife Ginny joined us.

    All of us like to bike, so we brought our bikes up with us.  Unfortunately, I am very out of shape from spending all of my time at the computer when my classes are in session and I have never been good at biking on hills, so our attempt at a bike ride from Beaver Bay to Gooseberry Falls was not very successful.  Dan and I turned around at Split Rock Lighthouse and rode/walked the six miles back to Beaver Bay while Larry and Ginny continued on the rollercoaster-like hills to Gooseberry Falls.

    Dan and I really enjoy hiking and it’s easier for me than biking on hills, so the plan for the next day (July 4) was to hike the Oberg Mountain Loop.  It’s a lovely trail that begins at a point partway up the mountain and takes a circular path around the top.  Unfortunately, the day of the hike turned out to be rainy.  We went anyway.  The picture is Larry, Ginny, and Dan getting soaking wet up at the top of the mountain.  Fortunately, there was no lightening!

    The views from Oberg Mountain are breathtaking.  Unfortunately, we could not see them at all.  Between the rain and the fog rising out of the valley, it was difficult to see beyond the edge of the cliffs at the overlooks.  We described what they would be seeing to Larry and Ginny and showed them pictures from other years when we got back to the cabin.

    We missed the big 4th of July parade in Tofte because it was still raining, but when the rain finally cleared, we did walk into downtown Tofte to check out the rest of the celebration and in the evening we enjoyed the fireworks display from the rocky lakeshore in front of the cabin.

    We got in some sunny hiking at the Temperance River the following day.  The area above the falls at Temperance River is Dan’s favorite place in the world.  We have lots of pictures of the grandkids playing in the water up there in previous years.  I was glad that they weren’t up there this summer, though, because the river was very full and the current was strong.  People do not survive a trip over that falls!  Unfortunately, I did not bring a camera this year.  Take my word for it, though, it’s a beautiful place!

    Before Larry and Ginny left, we had to have pictures in front of the cabin.  Here are Ginny, me and Dan – dry this time!  We really enjoyed the time they spent with us!

    July 7, Dan and I decided to hike the Devil’s Kettle Trail.  It’s considered challenging because there are 200 steps to get down to the trail itself, which then climbs to a level at least as high as the top of the steps.  The picture is only a part of the stairway.

    The adventure begins with a little hike from the parking area across the river and through the woods to the top of the stairs.  Of course, going down the stairs is easy.  When you get to the bottom, there is a lovely hike, mostly uphill, through the woods to the Devil’s Kettle a little over a mile away.  When you get there, you are as high or higher than the top of the stairs.  Dan kept saying that there had to be a way to do the hike without going down to climb up, but I am pretty sure that there was not.  The foliage was very dense and would have been difficult or impossible to penetrate, plus it looked to me like there was a pretty significant gorge at one point.
       
    Here’s Dan on the trail.  The area of the North Shore that we visit is in the Superior National Forest.  There are lots of well-developed trails with frequent signs asking that people stay on them.  The Forest Service is working very hard to return the forest floor to its natural state and to let the forest itself return to its natural condition.  You can see several birch trees at the left of the trail here.  They are natural flora of this forest, but many of them will eventually be replaced by pine trees which are the predominant species of the area.

    There are lots of beautiful wild flowers returning to the forest floor as well as wild strawberries and raspberries.  On some of the trails, there are signs explaining how the Native Americans harvested these treats at the appropriate times of the year, being careful not to take enough to cause damage to the forest.

    Eventually, the trail brings you to a lower falls seen here on the left.  The water below this small falls is calm enough for swimming and there was a family there doing just that.  I am sure they were enjoying the cool water because the North Shore is having an unseasonably warm summer with temperatures in the high 80′s and high humidity.    

    A bit more of a hike, or rather a climb, brings you to this view the upper falls (picture on the right).  The rock formation in the center splits the Brule River into two waterfalls.  The one on the left is the Devil’s Kettle.  It’s called that because it disappears into a hole in the rock.  Despite the efforts of many scientists over the years, the path of that part of the river has never been successfully traced.  It’s assumed that it follows an underground path that eventually ends at Lake Superior, but nobody knows for sure.

    I love the sight and sound of a waterfall!  There is something really awe-inspiring about  water tumbling over rocks.  There are so many beautiful falls on the rivers flowing into Lake Superior.

    Here’s a view of the Devil’s Kettle from above the falls.  You can see how the left branch of the falls just disappears into the rock.  I wonder how deep it goes?  I don’t think I want to make the trip to find out!

    The picture below is the view looking away from the falls above the Devil’s Kettle.  It’s fairly similar in appearance to the area above the falls at the Temperance River.  I think  it’s very lovely and peaceful.  I can spend a lot of time just sitting on a rock listening to the falls and looking at this calmer water and the lovely trees surrounding it.

    Of course, we had to leave eventually and go back to climb back up all of those steps!  Think about it – the average stairway in a building has 10 to 12 steps, so a climb of 200 steps is the equivalent of 8 to 10 stories!  Shortly after we started our climb, a young girl came by running up the stairs.  She said she was going to run all the way up.  We don’t know if she actually did because we did not want to run along with her to find out.  We were surprised, though, that the trip up the stairway was not nearly as strenuous as we had thought that it would be.

    That’s the first half of our week on the North Shore.  The second half will be coming up in a few days.

Comments (22)

  • Beautiful photos! Makes me want to go visit the area myself!

  • @murisopsis - We honeymooned on the North Shore 41 years ago and it has been a favorite place every since.  Our whole family loves it.

  • Oh Lord that would totally do me in to hike that distance.    You must be in shape just to be able to get up and down all of those stairs to hike the Devils kettle Trail.  Wonderful views and i could sit there for hours by the waterfalls and feel the energy.  That has to be so refreshing to sit and look at.

  • How awesome. :) I would like to see that someday.

  • You both have the style of hikers .
    The effort is less violent than biking in the mountain but it is long and certainly more healthy .
    I bet you are in dull shape now ,Nancy and Dan.
     You had superb views and you have time to watch them . The only one problem : the rain . But is is occasional .
    The landscape of the north shore of the Lake Superior keeps its wildness .
     Love

    Michel

  • Hi, I came here by way of styx_site’s rec. Beautiful photos! We love the North Shore area, and visit in the fall. Your post has made me want to visit in summer! Looks like you had a great time!

  • That looks like a place to put on the MUST SEE BEFORE I DIE list.  Magnificent!

  • @styx_site - It’s a very beautiful place.  I thought Dan was crazy when he said we were going to do all those stairs, but it was really not hard.  They have landings with benches where you can sit down.

  • @chasethesunrise - It really is very beautiful!

  • @fauquet - I am so happy that they are preserving the forest and returning it to its natural state after years of logging and tourism.  The trees are so important for maintaining our oxygen supply and it is so beautiful.

  • @CelticDawn - We go in the summer because we were both teachers so had to take our vacations in the summer.  I would like to go to Split Rock in November when the commemorate the sinking of the Edmund Fitzgerald.  This year is the 100th birthday of Split Rock Lighthouse, so they are lighting it on the first Friday of every month.  Unfortunately, we were not there for that, but if you go in the fall, you  might like to try to see it.

  • @LoBornlytesThoughtPalace - It’s one of our very favorite places.

  • @Nance1 - Good to know! We’ll have to plan our trip this year accordingly, that would be something to see!

  • What a lovely place to go on vacation too at least with all that walking you can enjoy treating yourself at dinner

  • 200 steps! I’d never make it, so glad you did and I can see the falls.

  • @englishjuls - We most generally cook dinner at the cabin – we had some good lunches out, though.

  • @BLB - I am glad you enjoyed the pics!

  • As I wrote to a politician just last night, “Being near the water reduces stress like you wouldn’t believe.”

  • I have just read your reply above ,Nancy ( I don’ t receive the e.mails ) and I agree fully with you . it is comforting to see such place finding again or keeping their wildness .
    Love
    Michel:
    Ps : At reading my previous comment I see a typing mistake . Please read “I bet you are in full shape now… ”. Thanks.

  • RYC about the wood : yes we love to stay by the fireplace when It is freezing outside . It is a sweet time .
    Love
    michel

  • Anything you agree interferes with my intelligence, I reflect hence
    photography | beadboard paneling | reading books online

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