July 8, 2004

• Up North, Part 4
  Naniboujou Lodge

  Naniboujou is the Cree god of the outdoors. The Cree say that Naniboujou is why the beaver’s tail is flat, why the deer carries a white flag, and why the woodpecker has a splotch of red. They pray to Naniboujou to lead them to the game and then for a safe return from hunting. Campfires must be doused before quitting camp because the woods belong to Naniboujou.

  In November of 1927, construction of Naniboujou Lodge was begun on the shores of Lake Superior 15 miles northeast of Grand Marais. It was built to be an exclusive private club. Minnesotans were limited to 25% of the membership because it was intended to be a national organization. Charter members included Babe Ruth, Jack Dempsey and Ring Lardner. It was to be a massive development with 150 sleeping rooms, a golf course, tennis courts, and a bathing house – a playground for the very privileged. Membership was for 99 years and was by invitation only.

  The grand opening of the lodge took place on July 7, 1929, not fortuitous timing. Only the first building of the complex, containing the dining room and 24 guest rooms, was ready when it opened, and Black Friday, November 29, 1929, effectively stopped any further construction. Members quit paying dues and Naniboujou failed.

  In 1935, the facility reopened as a hotel. Restoration and some landscaping took place. It changed hands again in 1953, becoming a family owned resort. In 1980, it became affiliated with Fish Enterprises, a Christian project that trained young people in religious fields of work and placed them around the world. Currently, it is owned and operated as a guest lodge once more.

  The amazing thing is that through its many incarnations, Naniboujou has been preserved in its original condition. The interior of the dining room is absolutely stunning! Antoine Goufee, a French artist, painted Cree Indian designs over the walls and the twenty-foot-high domed ceiling. Guests marvel at the colorful designs which echo the style and elegance of another time. Here’s a lenghwise view. That’s the largest stone fireplace in Minnesota at the far end.

  

  This is one of the side walls.

  

  This is the end opposite the fireplace. The windows you can see look into the gift shop.

  

  Andy, Jess, Jake, Dan and I went to Naniboujou for supper Sunday, June 27. Besides being a wonderful place to see, the food is also fantastic. Many of the dishes feature local delicacies. The cranberry pork tenderloin is especially delicious. We had had it before, so I tried the rib-eye steak with balsamic glaze. Andy had the steak, too, and decided that balsamic vinegar is not only delicious on steak, it’s a great accompaniment to mashed potatoes. Jess had the chicken cutlet parmesan, and Dan could not resist having the cranberry pork again. All of it was wonderful. The recipes have been developed especially for Naniboujou by the chefs who have headed the kitchen over the years. Everything is freshly prepared – no frozen or freeze dried potatoes here! Many dishes include wild rice, a Minnesota specialty. If you ever have a chance to eat there, don’t hesitate!

  After supper, we spent some time enjoying the grounds around the lodge. The lakeshore there is not as rocky as it is near Tofte and it has been developed as lawn rather than maintained in its natural condition.

  

  This is the back of the lodge as seen from the lake.

  

  Naniboujou Lodge is on the National Register of Historic Places. Vermillion College in Ely, MN, provides two five day elderhostel sessions there annually. Other special programs are available through the Lodge itself.

  On the way home from Naniboujou, we saw this rainbow as we were passing through Grand Marais. We had to stop and take pictures.

  

  Monday the 28th, we all went to the Temperance River in the morning. It’s quite near Tofte where we were staying and has trails that can be easily hiked while carrying a baby.

  

  I like this picture of Andy helping Jake the Giant Baby wade in a little trickle of water running over the rocks.

  

  Near the entrance to the Temperance River State Park stands – guess what?? – the Temperance River Liquor Store!! I don’t think folks around there quite grasp the meaning of the word “temperance”!!

  After lunch, Andy and his family headed home. Dan and I went for one last hike at the Cascade RIver, then returned for our last night at the cabin.

  We enjoyed our week on the North Shore. It was really hard to choose blog topics and to limit the number of pictures I included because there were so many nice memories. I think these wild flowers, which grow everywhere on the North Shore, provide a nice conclusion to this blog series.

  

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